Zugarramurdi

Reader, beware, for something wicked this way comes…

Ok. So maybe not “wicked” as much as it is a modern-day testament to medieval barbarism and austerity, but an intriguing day-trip nonetheless.

Zugarramurdi is a town located in Navarra (not technically Basque Country but close enough to share the language & traditions) and home of the Basque witch trials of the early 1600s. The town is more recently known in pop culture for the gross-out comedy, Brujas de Zugarramurdi.

In the early 1600s, women from the town were persecuted for alleged witchcraft.  This “witchcraft” consisted of natural remedies for ailments and lively summer solstice festivities in the cave, which drew the attention of nosy neighbors.  Thus started the Basque witch trials, which sadly led to the grisly deaths of dozens of women.

The town is a beautiful enclave in the Pyrenees, a stone’s throw from France.  Visitors can visit the now-famous cave of the rituals, learn more at the Witches Museum, or simply stroll through the quiet village and take in lovely pastoral views.

Colors of Casco Viejo

At first glance, Bilbao did not strike me as a particularly colorful city.  Over the years, I’ve fallen in love with some of world’s most striking spots: Cinque Terre, Thailand, Tasmania…but Bilbao seemed grey and industrial.  As I’ve mentioned before, although Bilbao’s beauty doesn’t expose itself immediately, I’ve gradually found the colorful corners that I’ve so admired in other cities.

The following photos are taken from Casco Viejo (The Old Town):

 

Pintxos

A trip to the Basque Country is simply incomplete without a sampling of the delectable little morsels found in nearly every bar: pintxos.  Pintxos are small snacks- typically served on a skewer-found throughout the Basque region.  Basque Country prides itself on its gastronomy, boasting nearly 40 Michelin-starred restaurants, making it one of the premier food capitals of the world.  Pintxos are no exception– though small, they range in complexity and combine intricate flavors and regional ingredients.

Bonus: Pintxos are cheap!   They typically cost between €1-2 each, which makes my inner cheapskate dance with delight.  Traveling on a tight budget, I can seldom reward myself with fine dining and other niceties, but in Bilbao I can feast like a queen for under €10, including wine.

The enjoyment of pintxos is a social activity, particularly on Thursday evenings, when many participate in pintxo-pote, which basically consists of migrating to several different bars with friends to try cheap pintxos and small cups of wine or beer (pote).  Don’t miss Calle del Licenciado Poza– a popular street for pintxos in the Bilbao city center filled with activity, especially on weekends and during football matches.

This cost me €2.

 

¡Buen provecho!

Gorbeia Parque Natural

The Basque Country is blessed with stunning natural features that appeal to every kind of nature lover: expansive beaches for ocean-dwellers, rolling hills for the trekking-type, and gorgeous mountains for the alpinistas.  Gorbeia National Park combines all three elements: sprawling paths through tranquil, wooded areas and aerial ocean views to reward those determined enough to reach the tallest summit in Bizkaia.

You can find route descriptions here.  The following photos are from the Menhir de Arlobi track, originating in Álava.

Portugalete por la Noche

Bizkaia is divided into many small municipalities.  While Bilbao proper is relatively small, the surrounding towns offer just as much culture, activity, and beauty.  The following shots were taken near the Puente Colgante (Vizkaya Bridge), a unique transporter bridge and UNESCO World Heritage Site.  The following shots are views of Portugalete from the opposite side of the river in Las Arenas.

Portugalete

Portugalete

Portugalete

Portugalete

Puerto Viejo

Puerto Viejo (The Old Port) is one of my favorite spots of Bizkaia.  It is located in Getxo–a mere 30 minutes from Bilbao in metro, but a drastically different feel from the modern city center.   The port itself is tiny, easily walkable in less than 30 minutes, but offers a selection of bars and restaurants to stop and enjoy the scenery.

Getxo

Getxo

Flower house

Yarn bomb!