Zugarramurdi

Reader, beware, for something wicked this way comes…

Ok. So maybe not “wicked” as much as it is a modern-day testament to medieval barbarism and austerity, but an intriguing day-trip nonetheless.

Zugarramurdi is a town located in Navarra (not technically Basque Country but close enough to share the language & traditions) and home of the Basque witch trials of the early 1600s. The town is more recently known in pop culture for the gross-out comedy, Brujas de Zugarramurdi.

In the early 1600s, women from the town were persecuted for alleged witchcraft.  This “witchcraft” consisted of natural remedies for ailments and lively summer solstice festivities in the cave, which drew the attention of nosy neighbors.  Thus started the Basque witch trials, which sadly led to the grisly deaths of dozens of women.

The town is a beautiful enclave in the Pyrenees, a stone’s throw from France.  Visitors can visit the now-famous cave of the rituals, learn more at the Witches Museum, or simply stroll through the quiet village and take in lovely pastoral views.

Colors of Casco Viejo

At first glance, Bilbao did not strike me as a particularly colorful city.  Over the years, I’ve fallen in love with some of world’s most striking spots: Cinque Terre, Thailand, Tasmania…but Bilbao seemed grey and industrial.  As I’ve mentioned before, although Bilbao’s beauty doesn’t expose itself immediately, I’ve gradually found the colorful corners that I’ve so admired in other cities.

The following photos are taken from Casco Viejo (The Old Town):

 

Pintxos

A trip to the Basque Country is simply incomplete without a sampling of the delectable little morsels found in nearly every bar: pintxos.  Pintxos are small snacks- typically served on a skewer-found throughout the Basque region.  Basque Country prides itself on its gastronomy, boasting nearly 40 Michelin-starred restaurants, making it one of the premier food capitals of the world.  Pintxos are no exception– though small, they range in complexity and combine intricate flavors and regional ingredients.

Bonus: Pintxos are cheap!   They typically cost between €1-2 each, which makes my inner cheapskate dance with delight.  Traveling on a tight budget, I can seldom reward myself with fine dining and other niceties, but in Bilbao I can feast like a queen for under €10, including wine.

The enjoyment of pintxos is a social activity, particularly on Thursday evenings, when many participate in pintxo-pote, which basically consists of migrating to several different bars with friends to try cheap pintxos and small cups of wine or beer (pote).  Don’t miss Calle del Licenciado Poza– a popular street for pintxos in the Bilbao city center filled with activity, especially on weekends and during football matches.

This cost me €2.

 

¡Buen provecho!

Tips to Get Involved in Bilbao

To me, there are few things better than traveling.  The new experiences, foods, the feeling of freedom and the world open before you.  But as is always the case, even too much of a good thing can be bad.  What do you do when traveling gets old?

I have posed this question with friends, family, and other travelers and been met with: 1. Sarcasm (“Tough life.”) or 2. Absolute agreement from other long-term travelers.  My intention is never to sound ungrateful– I am extremely fortunate to have the experiences I have had and would never change a thing.  Yet after years of frequent traveling, I have had the sensation that as the world is offering the best to me, I am not giving back in any productive, fulfilling manner.  I´ve used the past months to explore this feeling and find methods to reconcile traveling with being an engaged member of society. Here are a few ways I´ve found to get involved in Bilbao.

(The following links are useful for the Basque Country/Spain, but the last two operate in many other countries.)

1. Volunteer. Here you can find an array of interesting volunteer opportunities throughout Spain, from working with immigrants to rescue cats. Many require an advanced level of Spanish or a long-term commitment. Good for those on a long-term stay and a desire to give back to the community.
2. Take a language class. Schools like the Instituto Hemingway and School of Languages offer short-term and long-term language classes.  Additional activities for enrolled students include excursions through the city and international group meals– a great way to meet other foreigners in the city.
3. Give a class. If you prefer to be teacher rather than student, sign up to give clases particulares (private tutoring).  Many families are looking for native language tutors for their children.  A good way to earn extra cash and meet local families.
4. Find a language partner. If you´re interested in learning the local language but your budget doesn´t allow for classes, try a conversation exchange.  On this site, you can find a language partner and set your own meeting places and times.  It´s a fun (and free!) way to make a local friend and hone your conversational skills.
5. Join an interest group. Meetup.com operates in tons of cities and spans a range of topics–from comic enthusiasts to web designers to political causes, there is something to suit everyone.  Join a group that catches your interest and stay tuned for upcoming meet up times.

I´m interested to hear from other travelers–what are some of the ways you stay involved on the road?  Please feel free to comment below!

Gorbeia Parque Natural

The Basque Country is blessed with stunning natural features that appeal to every kind of nature lover: expansive beaches for ocean-dwellers, rolling hills for the trekking-type, and gorgeous mountains for the alpinistas.  Gorbeia National Park combines all three elements: sprawling paths through tranquil, wooded areas and aerial ocean views to reward those determined enough to reach the tallest summit in Bizkaia.

You can find route descriptions here.  The following photos are from the Menhir de Arlobi track, originating in Álava.

Portugalete por la Noche

Bizkaia is divided into many small municipalities.  While Bilbao proper is relatively small, the surrounding towns offer just as much culture, activity, and beauty.  The following shots were taken near the Puente Colgante (Vizkaya Bridge), a unique transporter bridge and UNESCO World Heritage Site.  The following shots are views of Portugalete from the opposite side of the river in Las Arenas.

Portugalete

Portugalete

Portugalete

Portugalete

Puerto Viejo

Puerto Viejo (The Old Port) is one of my favorite spots of Bizkaia.  It is located in Getxo–a mere 30 minutes from Bilbao in metro, but a drastically different feel from the modern city center.   The port itself is tiny, easily walkable in less than 30 minutes, but offers a selection of bars and restaurants to stop and enjoy the scenery.

Getxo

Getxo

Flower house

Yarn bomb!